Hey all,
For those who own a SV08, what kind of mods did you install on your printer?
Secondarily, does anyone have a multi toolhead mod? I’m not quite sure whether I should go with the INDX way or use OG toolheads.
Happy to hear your thoughts!
- Microswiss Flowtech hotend because the original died in a PETG-related incident
- Golden PEI build plate, much better adhesion compared to stock
- a few software tweaks and manual z-offset calibration
- next step will probably be a graphite bed to fix extended heat times and taco bed.
Cool! Can you tell me whether you saw any quality improvements because of the hotend change?
My SV08 has a spring mechanism under the bed so it doesn’t produce the taco issue, but I will still look into the graphite option, thanks!
The prints are shinier so I guess there’s a better heat flow in the hot end, especially at higher speeds.
But my goal was mostly to replace the stock hotend with a well known and well regarded design.
The stock one has a flaw with PETG, I’m not sure if it’s the material or the temperatures but it makes the nozzle creep down. Very slowly at first, leading to bad looking or failed prints and horrible first layers and constant z-offset fiddling, until it suddenly and very forcefully and catastrophically drives itself through the build plate or the print.
I was under the impression that the PETG flaw with the stock hotend was resolved a couple of months after the printer was released, and anyone with an affected nozzle was eligible for a free replacement (which basically includes an extra grubscrew to hold everything in place). My nozzle was definitely different to the ones I saw photos of after they’d popped apart.
I believe Teaching Tech made a video on how to make your SV08 into a budget toolchanger.
EDIT: I see that was one of your links (OG toolheads), looks like a good project to me, but I don’t have an SV08
Yeah I think it’s the same project we’re talking about. I find it better than the INDX one, for now at least, price-wise.
I put a Cartographer on mine and it eliminated the few issues I had with it (compared to my Creality K1 Max).
I usually just run the Orca Slicer generic filament profiles. I was spending hours and hour tuning each filament, just to have issues with the print afterwards like layer separation.
Thanks for the reply! Any difference between the BTT eddy sensor and this one that made you choose this?
I could not get the BTT EDDY to work at all. I struggled following BTTs guides for hours and nothing worked.
Cartographer was like 40 minutes including the flashing the unit to klipper.
It’s a month-old thread, but just in case you’re still interested:
- I got the graphite bed because it was half-price and I’d had issues with taco bed (in particular, it would be pringle-shaped in one direction for 30-40 minutes after turning the heater on, then ping the other way, so I had to make sure anything was either done quickly or waited for a long preheat).
- I’ve got a partially-printed, partially plywood enclosure for ABS (some panels were fine in PLA as the outside shouldn’t get hot enough to soften and others warped horribly, and I replaced the latter).
- Also for ABS, I’ve got bed fans, which were much easier to set up with the graphite bed as there’s no plastic frame, just a big empty space to blow air into. I’ve yet to get around to publishing the design for the mount I made.
- Various minor software tweaks.
that’s great, thanks for the reply! i’d love to see your enclosure solution. i’ve only recently started working with more advanced materials and ASA/ABS is next on my list
I’ve got https://www.printables.com/model/959792-sovol-sv08-enclousure on the top and back (as they’re the panels that didn’t fail, although the top’s a bit droopy as I printed it in black, then put the printer outside on a sunny day so the fumes would blow away when doing some ABS printing before I’d set up extraction for indoors). If you’re printing that yourself, I’d recommend making the screw holes bigger, as the STL has them the right size to tap an M3 thread into instead of the right size to pass an M3 screw through.
I had some spare insulation foam that fit in the gaps in the lid, and lined the rest with a roll of reflective-mylar-backed polystyrene insulation I had lying around, so that helps keep more heat in.
When the panels that failed failed, I just bought some 4mm plywood for £4, drew and cut out some rectangles the same size as the STEP files Sovol released for the printer said they’d needed to be, and drilled some holes where the CAD file said the screws needed to go (plus an extra bonus hole in the wrong place by accident) and a slit to pass the reverse Bowden tube and filament sensor wire through.
The doors are https://www.printables.com/model/946451-sovol-sv08-doors-jls-mod-v2, which I paid a local man with a laser cutter £30 ish to do in 4mm acrylic.
I also printed a top-hat in ABS once I’d got the enclosure reliably hot enough to have ABS not just warp itself to oblivion. I wasn’t going to risk wasting time doing it in PLA after half the enclosure panels I’d made with it had failed. https://www.printables.com/model/1083936-closed-sv08-hat-w-heatset-insert-support I added some extra holes for heat-set inserts for an air filter, although in the end, I realised it was better to just extract the fumes as some would inevitably leak out the enclosure.
To extract the fumes, I got some wood and made a panel I could fit over a window to attach an air duct, then I got a cheap mini greenhouse and cut it up so it fit over the whole printer so I could connect the other end of the duct and a fan. If the duct fan is always sucking air out of the tent, then fumes that escape the enclosure don’t go into the room, but the hot air in the enclosure mostly stays in the enclosure, so I don’t lose heat like I would if extracting directly from the printer.
wow thanks for the detailed answer. I’ll check it out! I plan on an internal air circulation with active carbon and hepa, hopefully it’ll be sufficient
I made this filter https://www.printables.com/model/1276996-recirculating-carbon-hepa-filter-for-sv08 and attach it to heat-set inserts in the top hat I made rather than to the mounting holes for the spool holder (as I’ve got the spool holder attached there). It’s definitely filtering, but even with a 12V fan being run at 24V, it’s not enough to make the air in the printer fully unsmelly, and not enough to stop the smelly air that leaks making the whole room smell of molten ABS.
There are higher-performance filters like the various Nevermore designs, but they’re more of a pain to print and more complicated than they need to be, and don’t fit anywhere in an SV08 without getting in the way of something and sacrificing print volume.
