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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • I’ve upgraded my MK3 to S and then S+ and my MMU2 to S and then 3. Starting from the launch model of the MK3 and ending with MK3S+ and MMU3 costed me significantly less than buying a new printer. Yes, the upgrade kits across models are not worth it (MK3 to MK4 or MK4 to Core one), but what do you expect? At least they offer the option, and details documentation, you can even source all the parts by yourself.



  • Synapse@lemmy.worldtoSelfhosted@lemmy.world•NAS case
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    3 months ago

    If you go look for a used regular PC case, older model will typically have more 3.5" bays. By older, I mean +15yo.

    If you have access to a 3D printer, you have options to make more drive bays on the cheap.

    You will have to go for a modern power-supply still, in order to have enough SATA power plugs.



  • Second hand MK4 are still pricey. Second hand MK3 are cheap! I was on the fence to get a second MK3S with MMU3 fully functioning for 250€ but it’s several hours of driving away from me. In the end I decided to upgrade my current MMU from WS to 3 to get it back and running on the printer I already have.

    Prusa MK3 are slow by today’s standards, but they still print well, are reliable and customizable.


  • Synapse@lemmy.worldto3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Filament quality
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    4 months ago

    What makes the quality is the exact composition of the plastic (additives, color pigments), the consistency and accuracy of the diameter along the filament and how dry it comes out of the bag.

    Bad composition could be very bad for bed adhesion and make the filament unusable.

    Bad diameter will cause mostly visual quality defects

    Humidifier will cause bubbles and strings, can be fixed by drying the filament.

    Back when I started I ended up with some very poop quality filament that I paid way over priced ! Nowadays I have the feeling the cheep stuff is pretty good after some drying. At least as far as PLA goes.