OK, this looks like it would work better than the bare fans but it still might not be adequate. Then again, the part cooling on my stock ender 3 isn’t supposed to be great either, but I haven’t experienced this issue when printing small details.

I opened Cura and took a look at the minimum layer time and minimum speed settings. I read the tooltips, and I was just as confused as you are until I read the comment from alkeemist. These settings might not be what you need. I’m afraid I don’t know enough to suggest anything else since I haven’t come across this issue myself.

I’ve never used any 3d printers other than my stock ender 3, but your cooling fans don’t have any ducts to direct the air to the space right below the nozzle. They seem to be aimed mostly at the buildplate. Do you think the cooling fans are adequate in their current configuration? To me, it looks like there wouldn’t be much airflow directly below the nozzle where cooling is most necessary for good detail. Maybe, when the printer is printing smaller layers, they stay in this dead zone for a long time and don’t get adequate cooling?

If you want to try and address this, you can print fan ducts out of a heat resistant filament like PETG to better direct air right below the nozzle.

Sidenote on Cura - I was reluctant to switch slicers for a long time, but I regret not switching to prusaslicer from Cura sooner. Once I wrapped my brain around it, prusaslicer has much better profile management and more reasonable defaults than Cura does imo.

Idk. I’ve been using my ender 3 v1 without an ABL probe of any kind just fine. The main problems occur when the shitty stock buildplate (the super thin buildtak one held on with binder clips) warps under high heat and you have to contend with high spots. Getting a probe could have solved the problem, but I just swapped over to a magnetic spring steel PEI buildplate, and after a bit of live leveling, I’ve printed things using the full buildplate once or twice so far with proper adhesion throughout. The only thing that I needed to do to use that was to stick a magnetic sticker on the stock aluminum bed. If OP needs a link, this is the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Flexible-Heated-235x235mm-Ender/dp/B07XBM24HN

Would an ABL sensor be nice to have? Absolutely. But you can technically do without it if your buildplate isn’t warped and you are very good at live leveling.

Oh, I also have the stiffer yellow springs installed, which helps the bed stay more level than the stock springs. That probably helps as well.