That’s really just to make sure your prints stick properly to the bed, honestly. I found that the best way to tune it is by tuning the z-offset (just hold the button during the first layer) while printing a large-ish cube, with the fill angle set horizontally (not in front of a computer at the moment to give you more specifics). It basically is a larger version of what happens at the end of the built-in z-offset calibration.
anguo
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Joined 1 year ago
Cake day: June 7th, 2025
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That looks like a Prusa mini? Not much you need to calibrate there, at least in its early life.
anguo@piefed.cato
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•And now I kinda have 5, but I finally printed somethingEnglish
2·1 month agoI replaced the PEI coated sheets on my Prusa printers with G10 (garolite) on spring steel sheets. I sanded it a bit and it’s working pretty reliably for the PLA, PETG and TPU I have been printing.
I feel that the “Enders are good for tinkering” is the Stockholm syndrome of 3D printing.
The only thing that bugs me with the MK4S, is that the nre fan shroud blocks the view and is much less mesmerizing to watch it print.
The visibility and restricted access to the hotend is the main issue for me, as it’s not something that can be fixed by software. I asked the college I work for to buy the INDX upgrade, but I regret it a bit.
Edit: the “hat” on top also looks super clanky.i wouodnhave preferred having more wasted space, if it meant hiding this monstrosity.